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Showing posts from February, 2014

A lot of waiting around

As a non-surfer I have never quite understood Peter when he drives up to the beach, gets out the car then watches the waves for 20 mins, what is he watching for?  He tells me it's the shape of the wave, where it's breaking, the consistency of the swell....blah blah blah.  Watch a group of surfers watching the waves anywhere, I think they are waiting for someone to make the decision to 'go in', that way they can see how good it is and decide whether or not to bother.   Get a group together and they can talk each other into or out of it, but that seems to take a good 20 mins.....these days, I take a book and stay in the car until the decision is made about staying or driving another 10 mins down the bay to the next spot and doing the standing all over again! But for Garrett McNamara the big wave surfer it is a whole other ball game, well it's still surfing, but you get my drift.   For McNamara it is life and death as he decides to ride one of the biggest waves in th